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Inhibitory Effects of Grape Stem Extracts From Douro Varieties on Skin-Aging Enzymes: A Sustainable Source of Cosmeceutical Agents

Garcia-Marti M, Boutaub O, Nascimento APS, Simal-Gandara J, Barros AN

Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 2026

Abstract

Background: Grape stems are a major by-product of the winemaking process and remain largely underexploited despite their richness in bioactive phenolic compounds, representing an opportunity for sustainable valorization within a circular economy framework.

Aims: This study aimed to characterize the phenolic composition and evaluate the antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities of grape stem extracts from different cultivars grown in the Douro Demarcated Region.

Methods: Grape stems from 12 Vitis vinifera cultivars were extracted and analyzed for total phenolic content, ortho-diphenols, and flavonoids. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using FRAP and DPPH assays, while bioactivity was further evaluated through elastase and hyaluronidase inhibition assays.

Results: Total phenolic content ranged from 35.2 to 89.6 mg GAE/g DW, with Sousão exhibiting the highest values. Ortho-diphenols and flavonoids showed marked cultivar-dependent variability, with Verdelho and Cercial presenting values above 20 mg CAE/g DW and 15 mg QE/g DW, respectively. Antioxidant activity reached up to 920 μmol TE/g DW (FRAP) and 85% DPPH radical scavenging. Enzyme inhibition assays revealed strong cultivar-dependent bioactivity, with Sousão, Verdelho, and Gouveio extracts achieving over 60% inhibition of elastase and hyaluronidase.

Conclusions: The results highlight the significant influence of grape cultivar on the bioactive potential of grape stems and support their valorization as promising raw…

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